Will not stay powered up.

[David Lee]

Rcv'd a couple WS 26 500's back from warranty repair. Was able to get into devices to ensure correct firmware (1.4.8rc12 ??). Used two (2) separate 12 DC battery's (one for each device) to gain access to devices. Prior to taking to field loaded scripts with same battery's. Using the same two batteries (thought to be a working combination) in cabinets in field both would power up (green light/fan) then light/fan would turn off. Brought one device/battery back to bench with same results. What did I do wrong?

[Julian]

Well, check your hibernate voltages are above battery voltage, first, and then check that input voltage is calibrated.

A dump of the console output will also provide some enlightenment, I think.

You may need to hold the reset button in while powering them up to get them to a stable boot state.

[David Lee]

Let me try holding in reboot while powering up. Early this morning I had zero luck but will re-attempt.

[David Lee]

Voltages are a good constant 25.6 VDC. Light/Fan light up/run for about 12 seconds then shut off. Not able to reboot. Not sure how to "A dump of the console output will also provide some enlightenment, I think. "

On another note, what are you seeing WISP providers using to power the battery's/Netonix devices? Tripp Lite has Model Number APS2424 that is for 24 volt users.

[sirhc]

The WS-8-150-DC, WS-12-250-DC, and WS-26-500-DC are designed to hook directly to your battery bank not a power supply.

Most DC power supplies do not have sufficient amps to drive the SMART DC power supplies at startup as they have an INRUSH.

The whole idea of the SMART DC models is to hook directly to battery banks no a power supply. Then use a charger to charge the batteries. The charger will charge the batteries up and turn off and as the switch draws the batteries down then the charger will kick in again and charge back up. Newer AGM batteries are designed for this type of application where the batteries are constantly topped off then drawn down a little then topped off again. The other nice thing about being hooked directly to the battery bank is in an emergency you can draw the batteries down as low as you want and so long as your charger unit can supply sufficient amperage it can recover even completely dead batteries if need be.

On AC sites I use Minn Kota SMART chargers which will charge each 12V battery independently even if hooked in series to produce 24V or 36V or 48V and it is a smart charger which offers 3 and or 4 stage charging where it can recover DEAD batteries with 10A+ per battery when AC power is restored.

https://www.google.com/search?q=minn+ko ... 5865783024

If an off grid solar site I would not let the switch discharge the batteries to dead as most solar sites are incapable of supply enough amperage to recover dead batteries in this case you program the switch to shut down at desired depth of discharge.

If you are going to use a power supply then you should use the WS-12-DC or WS-26-DC which has no SMART DC power supply.

[David Lee]

Chris - Great info. Thank you.

What am I to do with the two (2) DC units that I'm not able to access? As I mentioned above I was able to access twice... 1st time to ensure correct firmware and 2nd time to load script. I was not / am not able to access after 2nd time into device. Unit powers up for about 12-15 seconds and then shuts down. I can unhook battery from device and I'll have another 12-15 seconds of green light and fan.

[sirhc]

Chris - Great info. Thank you.

What am I to do with the two (2) DC units that I'm not able to access? As I mentioned above I was able to access twice... 1st time to ensure correct firmware and 2nd time to load script. I was not / am not able to access after 2nd time into device. Unit powers up for about 12-15 seconds and then shuts down. I can unhook battery from device and I'll have another 12-15 seconds of green light and fan.

I would put them on a bench.
Hook to power supply (Turned off)
Hook up a serial console cable (verify your console cable and software works with a known working Netonix switch)
Press and hold the default button while turning on the power supply and continue to hold the default button for 30 seconds after turning power supply on.
Release default button and then let switch sit for 3+ minutes without power interruption as the switch will be busy formating a section of the flash and doing other things.

see if this recovers the units, if not then you need to RMA them: http://forum.netonix.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1259

[David Lee]

Thanks Chris-I'll see what happens and reply back.