Netonix Forums

Hi I bought a WS-12-250-DC (9-60V) following happens when I connect the battery to the terminal WS-12-250-DC will not start.

the unit can only see a green bulb lit inside and another flicker for a few seconds and then off could tell me if there is to do something specific for the unit to turn

PWR does not turn
help

All units are manually tested before we ship them so finding a DOA unit is next to impossible.

How are you powering it (volts / amps)?


Possible causes:
It takes 10+ seconds to power up, maybe your not waiting long enough?

You hooked up the polarity backwards which will kill the power supply?
If you hooked it up backwards it is very apparent as it fries/pops the protection Diode near the power supply terminals and will no longer power up until the Diode is replaced, you would need to RMA it as it requires soldering.

Here is the RMA procedure viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1259

Battery input is 12V 7AH look at the photos sent to your mail leave five minutes unbootable

I've connected properly since he came and nothing does not work

You could tell me you should do to help make it work

If it was going to work it would boot up.

We hand test all our units before we ship them there should never be a DOA.

There is nothing I can do other then tell you to RMA it.

As I have said the only thing I can think of is it was hooked up backwards and blew the protection Diode which would prevent it from booting.

What is the length and gauge of wire used? Maybe it cannot handle the inrush? Not sure what 7AH is supposed to mean. A battery that can only put out 7A for one hour might not be adequate to handle the inrush.

You might want to test it with another battery and short heavy wire before incurring the cost to RMA.

Sr No I have not connected backwards

Netonix Positive Battery Positive
Netonix Negative Battery Negative
the strange thing is that not only see a LED lights inside the unit on and another flashes and then turns off

Cable length is 1ft have tried with another thicker wire also does not start anything just get to see a fixed led on the part of the source lit and another flashes a few seconds then off but the PWR LED has never on

Well then you need to RMA it so we can look at it.

So this unit came DOA, never powered on and you were never able to log into the device?
You would be surprised how many "DOA" units come back with a user config stored in them?
First thing we do is extract the Flash Chip and read the config and diagnostic log as in most cases the Flash chip survives, it is like our little black box.

This is the weird part because when we test each unit it is power cycled 3 to 4 times and the MAC address is assigned to the unit through Port 1 and the Serial Console.

We manually test each Ethernet port and check all the sensors and recently (past couple months) we now make sure we test all the fans.

The last time the unit is booted with the newly assigned MAC the tester goes to the Device/Status Tab and verifies all readings on that Tab and that the MAC address assignment is correct.

There are only three ways this could happen:
Reverse polarity or a voltage exceeding 62V DC was applied?
The unit was damage somehow?
A very rare but possible way is the power cable between the DC power supply and the switch board came off somehow in transportation.

Below are some pictures of RMA units sent back for "Warranty" so you have to excuse me when I am skeptical of DOA units.

It is not impossible and if it is a valid warranty we do repair and return them FREE of charge which many people can tell you so.
But if units are damaged we charge to repair them.
Note: We charge more for the repair if they try a fast one instead of asking for the repair when they know better.

Now I am not saying this is one way or the other as I have not seen the unit I am just stumped how it could be DOA, but as I said it is not impossible just very very rare.





ABove is why I am on a kick lately to promote proper grounding.

Here are some good posts on grounding:
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=188
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=1429

Since you are out of country you can open the unit and check the power cable from the power supply to the board.

That is the only thing I can think of that would cause this.

You still have not clarified what you mean by a 7AH battery. Automotive batteries have a much higher AH rating. A battery which delivers 5A for 20 hours delivers 5A times 20 hours, or 100AH but the AH rating does not specify that the battery can deliver 100A for one hour.

Put a voltmeter on the battery when you try to power the switch to see if the voltage drops too low. I would test it with an automotive battery that is designed to put out high amperage.